💥 ART PRO NON-TOXIC TRANSPARENT EPOXY FOR RESIN-ARTISTS 8.3-36,5 KG[282,19 Oz-1287,5 Oz]
TRANSPARENT RESIN FOR ARTWORK AND DIY
Transparent self-levelling UV-resistant epoxy system, which creates a hard and glossy protective layer for casting up to 1 cm [0,39”].
- ⚙️ 【RESIN ART EPOXY】 ART PRO EPOXY RESIN is a high viscosity and high resistance product. The best choice for Resin-art, making Coasters, Trays, Ocean and Geode-art, jewellery and casting surfaces. The particular formulation makes it a resistant product suitable for both the surface finishes of paintings, tables or even artistic floors.
- 🧪 【PROFESSIONAL QUALITY】Art Pro Resin, unlike traditional “multipurpose” resins, has a special formulation and viscosity, which allows to obtain an impeccably transparent and glossy surface in any condition. Easily polished. The added UV Anti-Yellowing Filters helps save transparency over time. The low density allows prevent the incorporation of air bubbles making it perfectly suitable for river tables and countertops. Compatible with silicone and wood, fabric, glass, paper or photographs. Complete catalysis ~ 24-48 hours, but it will be ready for “unmoulding” after about 12 hours.
- 🌿 【SAFE AND CERTIFIED】 All our resins are Certified Non-Toxic, Solvent-free, non-flammable, and totally safe.
- 💧 【EASY TO USE】 The 3:2 (100:66) mixing ratio makes this product very easy to use. Being a two-component resin, simply mix RESIN A + HARDENER B in the ratio indicated above the package and let it harden without the need for further additives. Can be coloured as desired.
- 📞 【FREE PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE SERVICE】 Since we are directly a manufacturer, we have access to a professional laboratory that will happily help you with any complex project.
- 🇬🇧 【UK BASED TRUSTED COMPANY】 – RESIN-PRO team collect and send your order as fast as possible. We produce and realise epoxy resins since 2015. Just google our social media, where you find thousands of projects made with our products around the world.
ART PRO, the epoxy resin for the artistic sector: thanks to its special formula and its dense structure, it allows you to create paintings with the “pour paint” and liquid paint technique. It does not leak out from the working surface, slowly reaching the corners of the frame.
ART PRO preserves your original design and prevents any possible modification due to the casting of the resin: because of its special formula, the layers of colours do not expand and do not mix (unless you deliberately intervene), faithfully keeping with your creative idea!
Additional features: Long working time; + Odourless; + Excellent mechanical strength; + High impregnation and reinforcement of technical fabrics.
The product can be coloured with any epoxy dye (both in paste and powder) in a percentage ranging from 0.1% to 2.0%). It can also be thickened by the use of aggregates such as powders and fumed silica.
- – artworks, creation of art objects (paintings, panels, etc.) with the “fluid-art” (pour paint) technique (pouring up to 1 cm [0,39”]);
- – coating of surfaces, objects and furniture to add depth and brilliance to the colour;
- – create a 3D effect on prints, photos and images in general;
- – fixation of fillers (decorative elements, glass, stone, quartz, etc.)
- – creation of a perfectly transparent protective layer on your projects.
The “ART-PRO” formula is specifically developed for coating in artistic applications. Compatible with colouring agents, powder pigments, alcohol-based and oil-based dyes, aerosol paints.
The migration laboratory test on cured resin samples ensures that the final product does not release any harmful substances, if applied following the instructions.
Warning: the product is moisture sensitive, do not use on wet surfaces or with water-based dyes (e.g. Acrylics)
Usage ratio 100:66 (in weight)
Pot Life (150 gr at 30°C) [0,33 lb at 86 F]: 1h20 ‘,
Film (1 mm at 30°C) [0,03” at 86 F]: 6:00’.
Full catalysis after 24 hours.
Maximum pouring level: 1.5-2cm*
* – may vary from the pouring`s conditions (please, read below)
To obtain a cellular effect we recommend using the “Resi-Blast” additive or alcohol-based inks (“Pinàta”, “Jacquard” etc.).
💪🏽 LET`S START! 💪🏽
We would like to pay your attention – We don`t recommend working at temperatures below of 20 ° C and over 28 ° C, avoiding humid environments (or surfaces) application (if you are not sure on the humidity, let the resin warm up the components before pouring).
If epoxy resin was storage at temperatures below of 20 ° C and became murky, please, warm your epoxy up before using to full transparency. More detailed, please, read below.
👉🏽 LET`S MIX! 👈🏽
THE PROPORTIONS ARE PRINTED ON THE BOTTLES/TANKS, PLEASE CHECK IT BEFORE USING.
Being a two-component resin, you have 2 bottles at your disposal, one containing resin “A” and the other containing hardener “B”. You will need some electronic scales to weigh grams and a mixing container where you can combine the liquids.
How to calculate, how much hardener do you need? Take your proportions –JUST AN EXAMPLE – 100:66. Then take the weight of component A and multiply on B, (if 100:66 – A*0.66; if 100:70 – A*0.70; if 100:87 – A*0.87).
So! If you have component A 5kg, and proportions 100:66, your calculation –
5*0.66=3.3kg of component B.
Please, use some electronic scales and weigh in grams to get the best results.
After an accurate dosage, the resin must be mixed irregularly (meaning, always in the same direction) for at least 5-8 minutes. This part is very important, because if it is mixed only for a few seconds, it will not be homogeneous at the molecular level, therefore will remain soft / opaque in some parts.
Mix evenly on the edges and bottom of the container. (Do not mix very quickly or forcefully because that would cause a lot of bubbles). We do not recommend using a mixer (of course, you can, but, please, not at high speeds!), as this leads to the formation of microbubbles, which will be difficult to remove. The carefully you mix – the less bubbles.
Remember, the quality of the future casting depends on a good mixing of the two components!
Important! Try to make the mix carefully, so that the smallest fractions of air are not formed in the resin, because visible bubbles will easily disappear from the surface naturally, and micro fractions of air are often practically invisible, but during the curing and heating of the epoxy mixture, the air in them expands and after complete curing, bubbles can be visible in the casting. This can and should be avoided if you do the kneading correctly.
How to remove the bubbles?
Although degassing (vacuum) is necessary to eliminate 100% of the bubbles, there are some tricks that can help you minimize the presence of bubbles during the creations.
1) Mix the resin longer but in a more delicate and uniform way.
2) Before mixing, heat component A (in the sun or using a radiator), so that it becomes more liquid and the bubbles rise more easily.
3) Leave it to rest for a few minutes to release the air bubbles.
4) Once launched, use a heat source (thermal pistol or fire, NOT a hairdryer) to burst the bubbles on the surface.
👋🏼 LET`S COLOUR! 👋🏼
Practically everything, including powder and metallic pigments. As long as the dyes are “dry” (for example, dust or sands) there are no problems (as long as they are perfectly dry), when, instead, you want to add pastel or liquid colours, make sure they are compatible with epoxy resins. If they are not compatible (for example enamels, tempera, acrylics) only a few drops can be added, since an excessive dosage could compromise the mechanics of the resin and its brightness (for example making it soft or sticky). There is also a “gold rule” – no more than 5% from mix weight.
Remember, it`s important to avoid contact of epoxy resin with water! From the ingress of water into the resin, it may become cloudy or not solidify! And if the hardener has been stored for a long time with a loosely twisted lid, then it can absorb moisture and it condenses in the form of microbubbles in the thickness of the casting during the curing process.
👍🏽 WHAT`S NEXT? 👍🏽
After pouring epoxy into your formwork be ensured in the “sterility” of the room so that dust and dirt will not get into the epoxy.
Important! We don`t recommend covering the filling with plywood or something dense, because this will disrupt the heat sink during the solidification of the resin!)
Remove micro-bubbles stuck in the surface layer using a hair dryer or a manual gas burner. We also recommend that you do not overheat the epoxy filling with a burner or a hair dryer, because this can cause overheating and boiling of the resin.
The full curing time of ART PRO EPOXY resin is from 18 to 26 hours (depending on the temperature and humidity in the workshop. The lower the temperature and the higher the humidity, the longer the curing time of the resin.
❄️ FROZEN EPOXY ❄️
Epoxy can become frozen under 20C. PLEASE! DON`T USE FROZEN EPOXY. This may affect the result.
There is no excuse that you hold your epoxy inside a warm room, the epoxy could be frozen much before, and only proper defrosting will return the lost transparency and liquidity.
How to understand why your epoxy was frozen? The component A is murky or solid, like frozen water. Don`t worry, there is no need to dispose of your epoxy and run to leave a bad review. It`s okay. You need to do only one thing – to defrost it, warming component A to 50-70 ° C. We usually put the closed tank inside the sink with very hot water and leave it for 20-30 minutes. The problem is next – the more epoxy inside the tank, the more difficult to warm it properly, so just repeat the procedure. If it doesn`t help, just try again, because we sold thousands of tons of the epoxy resin and every time the problem was sorted out by waiting a little bit longer in hot water (of course with the closed lid). Yes, we totally understand that it causes excessive movements, but it`s natural and it could happen with any other epoxy.
Of course, after defrosting you need to cool the component A to room temperature before using.
🔥 HOW TO AVOID OVERHEATING? 🔥
Maximum pouring level: 1.5-2cm. It may vary from the full weight of poured epoxy, sizes of project and temperature when you pour. Not following instructions may cause overheating.
If you need to make a larger layer, just pour in several steps, waiting 8-10h the first time; 10-12h in the second time and 12+h the third time).
If one side of casting is more than 100cm long, please, create your project in layers (each layer being 1-2cm thinner than recommended) with a time interval like above – (waiting 8-10h the first time; 10-12h the second time and 12+h in the third time).
If you do a Round casting, and the required weight A+B exceeds 3kg, create your project in the same way as above (less thickness per application + longer waiting between layers).
Be especially careful when working with resins for large castings, when mixing a large amount of resin, do not leave the mixture for a long time in one container – pour it immediately into other smaller containers to avoid the “mass” effect: the resin begins to heat up quickly and hardens instantly with defects without the chances to change it in any way.
IF YOU MEET MORE THAN ONE EXCEPTION IN YOUR PROJECT, REDUCE THE SIZE OF YOUR APPLICATION AGAIN.
🌊 HOW DO I ELIMINATE SURFACE OPACITIES OR SMALL WAVES FORMED AS THEY SOLIDIFY? 🌊
These surface opacities are the result of the interaction with environmental humidity, which creates a patina on the surface of the cast. At first it is not obvious, but as soon as it starts to solidify, in some places you can notice opaque halos and even “wrinkles”.
There are different strategies to avoid this:
1. Work in low humidity (dehumidified) conditions or in a heated environment.
2. Heat the 2 components before mixing (for example, holding them over a radiator).
3. Mix the resin with the hardener and apply it only when it starts to heat up (so that the reaction begins while it is still in the container). This operation is essential, but requires minimal attention. It should be checked every 5-6 minutes and as soon as it reaches 40 ° C (when it’s warmer than our hand) it can be applied. Otherwise, it could start solidifying in the container!
4. It is advisable not to apply during the night or when it is raining (since the humidity increases).
5. Do not apply on surfaces that still contain humidity, like on fresh cement or on non-dried wood.
– If due to humidity, the resin is not glossy, no problem: just pour a new layer over (following the instructions above) and it will become perfectly transparent and regular.
1) For easier removing from the formwork, we recommend to cover the formwork by our special film “shiny shield“, before pouring.
2) We do not recommend using a mixer (especially at high speeds), as this leads to the formation of microbubbles, which will be difficult to remove. The carefully you mix – the less bubbles.
3) If you`re going to embed something in your project while curing, do not leave it overnight, because it always becomes solid much faster than you could expect (curing times vary depending on temperature, mixing time, volume and etc). We always advise pouring in the morning then swirling through the day.
Epoxy resin is a complicated technical product, but if you follow the basic rules, you will get wonderful results! If you need any assistance, just call us – 07596 850968 or email us – email@example.com
With best regards, RESIN PRO TEAM😊